Ticking off Kepler
Whether you plan to enjoy the 60km circular Kepler Track, one of New Zealand’s stunning Great Walks, over a leisurely three or four days – or in a body-grinding five-plus-hour mountain run as part of the Kepler Challenge – Fiordland’s Kepler Track should be on your bucket list. Sharon Davis tells us more.
Nestled between Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri in the Fiordland National Park, the circular Kepler Track offers a excellent tramping experience on well-graded and developed tracks, with comfortable huts and spectacular scenery, on a route that passes alongside lake shores, through beech forests, up to exposed alpine tussock land with a climb of 1350m – and back down again.
From the car park, the track crosses the control gate at Lake Te Anau before meandering through the forested path along the lakeshore past the gently curving Dock Bay and on to Brod Bay about 5,6km from the start.
Brod Bay is a great place to camp overnight, or for a cooling dip and lunch break before tackling the climb to overnight at Luxmore Hut, another 8,2km up the track. From Brod Bay, it’s a steady climb, but the views when you emerge above the treeline make the slog worthwhile! From here it is a kinder gradient and then a contour around to the Luxmore Hut at 1085m.
Luxmore Hut has great views, 54 bunks, and a large communal kitchen. The side trip to Luxmore Cave to explore the stalactites and stalagmites underground is worth it – don’t forget to pack a torch or two!
The 14,6km between Luxmore Hut and Iris Burn Hut is undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. From Luxmore Hut the track climbs around the side of Mt Luxmore. You can drop your packs and detour to the summit at 1472m for 360-degree views, before tramping the knife-edge tracks that follow the mountain ridges to Hanging Valley. You should be rewarded stunning views across the south fiord of Lake Te Anau – and sightings of the clownish Kea.
From Hanging Valley shelter, the route descends through a leg-torturing series of steps and zigzags into the beautiful forested section of Hanging Valley, with the promise of a welcome rest at the Iris Burn Hut, with 50 bunks. The short trip to the Iris Burn Falls is another worthwhile side trip.
The forested walk between Iris Burn and Moturau Huts is a gentle 16.2km descent from 497m to 60m ending at the shore of Lake Manapouri and a flat beach-like area in front of Moturau Hut (40 bunks). Trampers on the tighter three-day schedule can continue another 6km along forested paths to Rainbow Reach and then over the swing bridge to the car park for a transfer back to Te Anau while hard-core trampers can push on to finish the entire circuit – not recommended for unfit or faint-hearted individuals.
For those doing the full 60km track over four days, it is another 9,5km from Rainbow Reach (don’t cross the swing bridge if you plan to complete the whole route) along forested and river tracks to reach the car park. This section follows the Waiau River to the control gate also offers good trout fishing.
Getting there
The Kepler Track starts at the Kepler Track car park, a short distance from Te Anau. It is an easy stroll from town or the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre (under an hour) and also serviced by shuttle operators over the Great Walks season (late October to late April).
For those with less time (or inclination to walk) there is a pick-up or drop-off point at Rainbow Reach, about 12km from Te Anau, as well a boat trip to Brod Bay… and a helicopter landing pad at Luxmore Hut!
Quick facts
The Kepler Track Huts have bunks, mattresses, heating, toilets, basic cooking facilities, solar power lighting, and running cold water.
Great Walks huts and campsites must be booked in advance during peak season (October to April).
The Kepler Challenge is a premier mountain running event held since 1988. The race usually attracts around 450 entries and is held annually near the beginning of December. The next Challenge is on Saturday, 7 December 2013 – see www.keplerchallenge.co.nz for more details.
The fastest time for the Kepler Challenge is just under 4 hours and thirty-eight minutes, set by Phil Costley in 2005.
What to take
Sturdy boots and backpack with wet weather gear and warm clothing. Do pack a sleeping bag, food for entire the trip (plus surplus emergency supplies), plate, mug and utensils for eating, as well as personal toiletries and a towel.
This travel article by Shaz was published in Older & Bolder in 2013
