Set in the pulsing heart of the Zulu Kingdom, stretching over 96 000 hectares from Imfolozi in the south up to a hilly Hluhluwe in the north, the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve (slightly more than two hours drive from Durban) is not only the oldest game park in Africa, but one that can be regarded as KwaZulu-Natal's jewel of conservation: offering exciting viewing with a diverse range of birds and animal life – and is world-renown for its white rhino conservation, and more recently for black rhino relocation too.

Game viewing is the principal attraction of the reserve, and visitors will not be disappointed. Once the traditional hunting ground of Zulu Kings, Africa's big five (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros) stalk or browse through the flourishing savannah and a combination of self-drive trails, short self-guided walks and guided day or night game drives or longer guided walks are likely to produce some exciting sightings.

There'll be kudu, nyala and springbok camouflaged in the veld, giraffe gliding past with grace, and a variety of more than 400 birds to see. Watch out for rhino heading for a mud bath… and look carefully at the pools and pans. You might see the snout of a hippo, or catch the bathing protocol when elephant come to share the pools with buffalo… and don't forget to scan the trees for that elusive sleeping leopard!

RHINO CONSERVATION

By the 1930s the placid white rhinoceros population was down to less than 50 animals and "Operation Rhino" run by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife from Hluhluwe-Imfolozi was responsible for saving the white rhino from extinction. This project was so successful that animals were soon translocated - allowing the African population of white rhino to grow to 13 000, all of which have their origins in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi.

The more aggressive black rhinoceros used to be the most populous of the rhino species in the world (with 65 000 animals in 1970), but became critically endangered through extensive poaching that reduced Africa's population to 2 500 in less than 20 years. Recovery has been slow but steady in South Africa with the population standing at 3 500 animals.

Today Hluhluwe-Imfolozi has more than 350 black rhino and 1 300 white rhino which is a major source of stock for other conservation centres.

RHINO FACTS

• The common name of white and black rhino has nothing to do with their colour (both are light grey). It actually stems from a misunderstanding of the Dutch word 'wyd' referring to the wide, square mouth of this species which was heard at "wit" (white) – and the name has stuck. More correctly, the white rhino is known as the square-lipped rhinoceros and the black as the hook-lipped rhinoceros.

• Rhinos are herbivorous, live for 40 - 50 years, and are the second largest animal in Africa (the largest being the elephant).

HLUHLUWE-IMFOLOZI INFORMATION BOX

• Hluhluwe-Imfolozi is in a low-risk malaria area and offers a variety of accommodation options ranging from the luxurious to the tented bush camp experience. 

• Reservations through KZN Wildlife (www.kznwildlife.com); Tel: 033 845 1000; e-mail: bookings@kznwildlife.com

• The gate opens from 05h00 – 19h00 in summer (November - February inclusive) and 06h00 - 18h00 in winter (March - October inclusive). 

This article by Shaz was published in the May 2007 edition of Sawubona, South African Airway's inflight magazine. It was also used, with permission, as an illustration of good writing in an academic textbook published by Struik.