Immerse yourself in nature on the Rakiura Track

If peace, solitude, and pristine natural surroundings far from civilisation and the maddening crowd are what you look for in a holiday then the Rakiura Track on Stewart Island could be for you. Sharon Davis tells us more.

Considered one the easier Great Walks the Rakiura Track covers 32km of gently undulating terrain, or 39km if you plan to walk the road sections from the start and finish. The route starts at Lee Bay, a comfortable 5km amble from Oban. After passing under the chain-link sculpture the track meanders along the picturesque coastline for 8km to the campsite at Magnetic Beach and the welcome sight of Port William Hut.

It is a fairly short and easy first day with about three hours from Lee Bay – plus an extra hour and a bit of walking from Oban, so there is no need to rush and every reason to visit the interesting historical sites dating back to when logging, rather than fishing, was the mainstay of the island economy. 

Expect a well-defined path through coastal scrub and along beautiful pristine beaches with options for low and high tide crossings. Maori Beach makes for a pleasant and relaxing lunch stop if the weather is being kind. If you are lucky, you might also see a kiwi if you go looking for them at night.

Trampers usually overnight at the hut or campsite at Port William and then backtrack about 30 minutes to join the 13km trail that cuts across the island through a podocarp forest to North Arm Hut at Paterson Inlet, roughly six hours away. This section lacks the coastal views of the first day and includes a couple of steep hill climbs. The shoreline at North Arm Hut is well stocked with mussels for those wanting to supplement their trail rations.

The last 11km of the trail returns to coastal scenery following the shores of the Paterson Inlet and then the rough cobbled old Kaipipi Road, which used to service the sawmills at Kaipipi. It should take roughly four hours to reach Fern Gully car park, and then it’s a short downhill walk on tarred road into Oban to complete the circuit.

If this sounds a tad too long and exhausting, you could consider Coast-to-coast option offered by Stewart Island Flights. This includes a flight into Mason Bay with a beach landing, an overnight stay at Mason Hut where the odds of seeing kiwi in the wild are about the best you’ll find in New Zealand, followed by a four-hour walk to Freshwater Hut, and a water taxi through Paterson Inlet to Oban. 

Getting there

There are two ways to get to Stewart Island either flying in from the airport in Invercargill or catching the ferry or helicopter service that operates from Bluff.

• Stewart Island Flights offers a 15-to-20 minute flight across the Foveaux Strait in small (and fairly old) fixed-wing aircraft. You can fly direct to Oban for the official start of the Rakiura Track on their regular scheduled flights or arrange a special charter with a beach landing (tide and weather dependent) at your chosen hut along the track. The flight costs $117.50 one way or $203 return and has a baggage limit of 15kg per person — extra baggage by arrangement.

• Stewart Island Experience Ferry runs a regular service to the island. The crossing by ferry takes roughly one hour and costs $75 one way or $130 return. Coach transfers from Invercargill to Bluff are available at an extra charge. Luggage is restricted to two carry-on bags per person; one small carry-on and one stowed — extra baggage by arrangement.

• Helicopter charters are another option if your budget stretches that far. Contact Rakiura Helicopters or The Helicopter Line.

Quick facts

• Stewart Island, the third largest island in New Zealand, is hilly with a wet climate and largely unspoilt natural environment - and home to the Rakiura National Park. 

• The island has a population of 381, most living in Oban, where just about everything is within easy walking distance.

• Stewart Island has a reputation for VERY muddy tramping, but most of this is avoided on the Rakiura Track through the use of boardwalks and prepared walkways. There is some mud, but thanks to DoC’s track maintenance efforts it is nothing like some of the photos you see of people thigh-deep in mud on the North West or Southern Circuits.

• Unlike other Great Walk huts the huts on the Rakiura Track do not have gas stoves – you will need to bring your own. The Ship to Shore Foursquare supermarket at Oban has a good supply of gas canisters for those flying to the island, as well as a reasonable assortment of hiking and camping food. Prices are a little higher than on the two main islands.

• Hut and campsite bookings for the Rakiura Track need to be made in advance via DoC – either online or at a DoC visitor centre.

• Go prepared for all seasons. Stewart Island’s weather is unpredictable and can change suddenly – several times a day. 

This article by Shaz was published in Forward 50 in 2016.